Best Thai Soaks

Places and Prices, a Thai language coffee table magazine share with us what they believe are their best hot springs in Thailand. their best:

• Pong Duet, Chiang Mai, north Thailand
• Tha Pai, Mae Hong Son, north Thailand
• Jaeson, Lampang, north Thailand
• Raksawarin, Ranong, southern Thailand
• Sankamphaeng, Chiang Mai, Thailand
• Fang, Chiang Mai, north Thailand

The list includes only the six above, so are we to conclude that hot springs are not popular? Or simply not 'best'?

Pai. Gaew's photo's

What would you do with a couple of million?

Recipe for Success
One of the few really developed hot spring resorts in Southeast Asia goes by the name of Hotspring Beach Resort & Spa. Located in Phang Nga province just half an hour north of Phuket airport, Southern Thailand, one would expect that this professionally run resort (***** stars it claims) to be a grand success:

• Spa and wellness are increasingly popular tourist destinations,
• Phuket airport is serviced from major destinations in the region as well as a selected few outside the region,
• the area is slowly becoming a popular alternative for Phuket itself, especially with the largely undisturbed back country and
• the fact that it's more than evident that considerable funding had been poured in to ensure a success.

But is it?

The Answer
Coming from the north, the obvious grand entrance is passed, as the resort sign is aimed for northbound traffic (coming from the airport). After a couple of minutes I turned around and this time went into the grand entrance with an absurd large driveway. That said, shaded parking space is at a premium.
But eventually after finding a spot and I'm looking around what to do, the (under-employed?) receptionist is already underway to see if I'm really going to be a client. I'm informed that the entrance to the bathing facilities is 500 Baht (about $15) which includes a free drink / snack and a towel. Not too bad. They even have locker rooms, but as I'm getting older I'm getting better at the towel changing thing.

From the reception one crosses the main free form swimming pool. At the end of this pool are two large, circular pools, to the left the warm pool, to the right the hot pool. Both pools seem slightly under maintained, but a sip of water reveals that the springs water is laden with minerals. Or sea water? The day is hot so maybe the hot pool is worth skipping, though the warm pool is too tepid. The swimming pool looks great, unfortunately it's heavily chlorinated.

Not many other guests / visitors are lounging about. The whole afternoon doesn't reveal many others. It's Phuket's main tourist season, so where are the guests?

I order my drink and snack, service is not too bad. Read a little, bath a little.

Seeing, it's a hot spring beach resort, I go in search of the beach. I'm already forewarned not to swim as it's too dangerous. Actually the resort is located on a lagoon entrance to the sea, so you'll have a lot of current. They have built a long pier which also holds a non-functioning restaurant, but as the tide is out I can take the steps to the sand below and continue for another 300 meters to the windswept and empty beach.

It's a long walk back and I'm in need of a drink. Nothing better than some tea. Deliriously I'm replied with 'we don't do that'. Fair enough. I won't disturb the staff anymore, take another soak and leave.

The swimming pool.

Their opinion
The Hotspring Beach resort and Spa expand both on their web site as well as in a brochure. They refer to their resort being:

'The one and only natural mineral hotspring beach resort and Spa in Thailand',

though the website mixes the one and only up to make it:

'The only and one natural ...'.

Concerning the hot spring:

'The hot spring source was found in this piece of land about 40 years ago. The water was originally sprung out about 3.5 m above the ground. However, due to the land development, a concrete wall was made to cover the spring which reduces its height to 1-1.5 m at the present day.

Out natural hot spring mineral water has many health benefits, such as:

• cleanses and beautifies your skin
• eases and soothes tired or aching muscles and joints
• eases tension and de-stress with the comfortable water temperature (approx. 45 °C)
• provides more effective massage by deep heating the muscles prior to your treatment

Furthermore, the elements dissolve in the water are thought to have therapeutic value, for instance:

• Calcium is vital for bone structures and aiding in the function of muscular tissues.
• Iron enables red blood cells to carry oxygen around the body, which is vital for the formation of the hemoglobin'.

Bare breasted fountain.

More Info
It comes as a surprise that there is hardly any info about the hot springs pre-resort. Wikitravel ignores the resort name and refers to the hot spring being Ban Bo Dan:

'The water of the natural hot springs are laden with minerals such as sodium and calcium, which are believed to relieve rheumatism, numbness, and help lessen the tension of both body and mind, as well as being beneficial to your complexion and hair. Mineral baths are available daily'.

Ban Bo Dan is possibly the former name, before the resort was built. The resort also seems to have been under management of Dusit Hotels. At least this site mentions the hotel as Dusit Hotspring Beach Resort and Spa, though Dusit fails to mention this in their business history.
This site reveals more history:

'In March 2002 the luxury Hotspring Beach Resort & Spa has been build',

while also maintaining the sentence 40 years before, so now more like 50 years ago. Others put the date of construction in 2004. 

 

Interestingly, Phuketdrive.com adds a picture of the original spring which he says can be visited separately as of early 2012.


 More Opinions
As it's a overnight stayable resort, there are a quite a few reviews of guests' stays from accommodating sites. In general they are widely differing in experiences. But it seems it's all about the expectations you have:

• Yes, the resort is very big and spacious, as are the rooms.
• However there are no nearby facilities (including beach) meaning that you are totally dependent on what the hotel offers.

And that's where it the main problems seem to be.

Elsewhere some note that the facilities themselves are outdated (2007), lack of maintenance (2009), facilities getting old (2009). I would have to agree. At the edges Figurativly, the resort was becoming ragged and tattered. The pier for instance looked decidedly unused, piles of used towels were left for hours at a stretch, leaves were not cleared out of the pool, the communal toilet was dirty.

Though most visitors like the hot spring pools themselves. That said it comes as a surprise (as this is the only hot spring resort in Southern Thailand) that he hot springs are just mentioned as one of the many facilities: i.e. no wifi, beach too far away, airport transfer too expensive but good hot spring pool, staff a bit slow, towels too thick.

Who's the odd one out? (a.: there are two!) Source: KrAtAi

Getting there: From Phuket island head north to Khok Kloi village (8 kilometers), take a left for Natai and then 1 kilometer down this road head north again for 2 kilometers and you are there. Signage is good.

Soaking experience: With the hot springs being the focus of this multi-million investment one can certainly expect the soaking facilities to be good. They were. Though nowhere was the experience any superior than some of the other better hot springs in Thailand. If anything the artificial surroundings render it less pleasing ....

Overall impression: I'm still not fully convinced that such sprawling expanses are a boon for soaking.The resort is expansive but also deserted. What I find weird is that they do everything to make it green, but they could have also maintained a lot of the original mangrove forest. The spa could have added to the experience. I was oblivious to this and with staff being at best indifferent one does not leave with a very good impression.


More photo's from Stephen and Kate.

Bob up

Off the trail
Despite it's presence to the nearby tourist center of Phuket (and Khao Lak), Kapong hot spring seems to be well off the tourist trail. That said the lazy environs of Kapong are altogether located in what one would suspect another world, one without tourists.

The main hot spring area. Sandbagged and ready for a soak.
The spring itself is located at the start of the pond.

Kapong
Kapong (or Ka-pong) hot spring is otherwise known (probably locally) as Plai Phu. Located in the district of Kapong in Phang Nga province, in the south of the country it's just a 2 hour drive from the hub of Phuket's hot tourist spot (Patong) or just 1 hour from Khao Lak. The town itself seems very laid back and for a district head quarter not much seems to be going on. Economic activity revolve around rubber planting with evidence of recent palm oil plantations slowly attributing to local economic significance. Furthermore, mostly small villages located between quite heavily forested mountains.

The parking area with a market stall. Some other housing (unused) behind.

The Site
There is quite a bit of parking space on gravel belong side the Le stream. Behind between the trees there are a number of bungalows and other structures which seem unused. Downstream one sees (a now cut off from the main stream) side channel with some huts and a number of port-a-loos besides. The side channel has been blocked with a dozen or so sand bags creating a half meter deep pool which is warmish. Go to the far end of the channel and the water is definitely hot. Nearby in the main stream, are a number of springs in the river bed which are hot and the main stream itself heats up.

Merge between the hot stream (left) and the main cold stream (right).

Desert?
A great place to soak up the heat especially now while the weather is cooler. But alas the main area is totally devoid of trees so during the day having a soak without getting a heat stroke is not possible so it seems. Possibly that's why the place is so deserted. What I like is that though enhanced one can see that the site has remained mostly natural. I can also imagine that come sun down this is a great place to hang out and around.

Out There
From the internet one does not become more knowledge, so it seems.

• This site mentions water temperatures of 65 degrees Celsius.

• A foreigner (presumably English: the_wibblywobblies notes a word of caution:

  'On departure we stopped off at a Hot Spring near Kapong. Our 5 year old inadvertently stepped into the small pool of extremely hot natural mineral water and suffered 2nd degree burns to her feet. We are planning to have a warning sign erected there but in the meantime please be careful'.

  There's no danger sign and there were some certainly very hot pools. If this were somewhere else in the western world there would be big fences around it and no bathing facilities at all.

• Wikitravel's otherwise excellent Thailand entries fails to note the existence of the hot springs in Kapong (as laid down on the Phang Nga provincial page) though does mention the surrounding waterfalls.

• Finally PhangNgacity.org though is more explanatory:

  'Some of the hot springs spring up in a very cold stream that flows from the mountain. It is marked by arranged-cobble stones. On the level besides the stream there are concrete wells 2 meters high, with steps up and down 3-4 wells connecting altogether, in the area of 200 square meters to contain hot spring water that bobbed up. Nowadays (2007) these hot spring have lower bob ups, which may be caused by changes underground'.

  The site also has some (better?) photo's. That includes a picture of stone structures which just might have been some soaking facilities in the past.

Did I mention forested hills?
Well opposite the soak site they are doing their best to correct this impression.

Getting there: The hot springs are just 8 km out of town. Once past the district offices heading north one needs to take the first right towards Nai Le village. The good roads continues for roughly 4 km, when this time a well signposted turn heads to another right and up the valley the road continues onward until a sudden halt as one drives into a teak forest. The unpaved track continues for another 500m and one has arrived at Kapong hot spring.

Soaking experience: Natural and alternate use of cold water are a plus. Pity the water levels are not deeper, but a superior experience. Come morning early or during sun down.

Overall impression: The place is well worth a soak if a mid day visit can be avoided. Though evidence of use widespread it'sd by no means trashed. A place to get to know.

Lots of smaller springs around the river bed.

The main spring.

The main pond with the port-a-loo's and market stalls.

Top Thai heat

What's the best place to soak in Siam? Having until now only visited 14 of the on this site listed 91 it would seem unfair to draw a conclusion on this. What's more there may many more hot springs, more than 100 (109 to be precise) presumably. Presumably precise?

Anyway, using a tried and trusted method used earlier I looked at the number of internet hits for a less than perfect way of ranking the Thai hot springs. Yes, where foreigners visit, hot springs will rank higher. The same applies to more accessible options. Or more developed. Flawed it may seem it is nonetheless objective in as all are rated accordingly.

What is clear is the lack of info on hot springs in Thailand. Returns to searches are often so low, that my own site is influencing the result ... Therefore I have accorded google web search double the points, see how that pans out.

The result is a photo finish with Tha Pai being number 1, Fang second. The top 10:

1. Tha Pai (41 pts)

2. Fang (39)

3. Sankampaeng (28)

4. Betong (24)

5. Hin Dad and Rock Valley (22)

7. Phra Ruang (16)

8. Pha Bong and Pong Duet (13)

10. Klong Thom (11)

No real surprises ...

Would any be in my own top 10? Fang I liked as well as Hin Dad and Pong Duet. Other good soaks were Bo Klueng and Pong Phra Bat.

Others I haven't been too which I would rate high are Klong Thom, Theppanom, Jaeson, Mae Sariang, Mae Kasa and Ranong. The wish list?

Etiquette of soaking in Thailand

One of the trickiest aspects of enjoying hot springs and (commercial) spa's in general is how to blend in, each county having different 'rules'. Naturally Thailand has it's own.

However the way Thai enjoy their hot springs are very rule free, so it seems. It's nothing like the rules set in Northeast Asia nor the different conventions in Europe. Failing any specific guideline for enjoying hot springs in Thailand, what follows are this blogs view of what the rules are and the the background to these rules.

In general, Thai never take a shower before hitting the hotter springs, don't ask me why. Otherwise extremely meticulous in cleanliness matters, the Thai attitude to hot springs (and bathing in natural water bodies in general) seems quite the opposite. No showering, no cleaning, that's not too difficult to remember.

Though this aspect might be OK for lakes, sea's and rivers, I can imagine some are already put off soaking. Therefore I ask you not to proceed ...

Bathing attire in Thailand is nearly non-existent. But not in the sense that the Thai love a skinny dip, it's quite the opposite. Taking the waters means doing so fully clothed! In some cases you will see soakers change on forehand, but most continue to jump in with the same clothes they have been using all day. Yuck! Quite unThai.
Therefore it's advisable to avoid well visited bathing places, the water can only be a cesspool. Remember that sanitary quality is at it's best, very poor here.

But when researching for this article I can across many websites of famous commercial spa's where nudity is de-rigeur. Six Senses, Katathani, Banyan Tree and Pimalai (as examples) all have photo's featuring naked (but tastefully avoiding anything revealing) local ladies (what about us gents?). So can one conclude that such practice only exist on private land?

Probably. Even toplessness (but naturally (not!) this only applies to half of the world population) can be prosecuted if taking place on/in a Thai National Park.

Looking into the etiquette of bathing in general the following (from Wikitravel) is an often repeated paragraph:

'Swimsuits should not be revealing — many Thais swim in full clothing. Women should never go topless on the beach, especially beaches in national parks, as this is illegal and most Thais consider it offensive in the extreme. Women are sometimes advised to wear a T-shirt over their swimming gear; this is more important at primarily-Thai beach resorts, and will be almost entirely ignored at the most heavily westernized areas'.

Couchsurf:

'When swimming at the non tourist areas it would be polite for women to wear shorts and a t-shirt, not bikini'.

Others add:

'Now imagine this, Thais don't sunbathe topless, in fact they don't sunbathe at all, if they did you can bet it wouldn't be topless. Imagine what they would think seeing you with your breasts exposed to the world, or worse still, going for a skinny dip!'

Asiatours.net:

'Revealing clothing, worn by either men or women, is a little disgusting to most Thais. Short shorts, low cut dresses and T-shirts and skimpy bathing suits come into this category. Shorts are considered improper and low-class attire in Thailand, only acceptable for schoolchildren, street beggars, and common laborers …not wealthy tourists! Except at beach resorts, you should never wear skimpy shorts, halter tops, low-cut blouses, or anything else that will offend the locals'.

Or into.asia.com:

'Is it okay to go topless / nude on beaches in Thailand ? This is frowned upon in Thai culture, and you will almost never see a Thai doing it. Nevertheless, going topless on some beaches on Ko Samui, Phuket, Ko Pha-Ngan and other very touristy islands is commonplace. The locals here are used to foreigners and don't care so much. In less touristy places, particularly where there are Thai families on holiday, it is considered rude and offensive. Going nude at beaches is illegal in Thailand, and is impossible pretty much everywhere. If you really want to do this, your best bet is to find somewhere remote where you are not sure not to be seen'.

These all lead you to believe that even wearing bathers would mean a cultural faux-pas. But is that really the case?

A faux-pas possibly, but not necessarily a cultural one. From Thaivisa.com forum:

'Against Thai culture? So a topless statue and this mural at the Grand Palace are no longer appropriate? It was only 50-60 years ago, when Thais were being persuaded to move away from their "topless culture" to dress more Western. ...
So 50 years ago, we have a government encouraging Thai women to put their shirts on. Today we have culture 'experts' trying to tell you that it's in line with "Thai Culture" to dress modestly'.

'A Thai government poster from the Marshal Plaek Pibulsonggram
era (1938-1945) promoting the "civilized" form of dress'.

Left walking around in a lungi (man and woman topless) not allowed anymore.

One can imagine that back in the time before the poster was printed bathing au-naturel had little of the supposedly cultural baggage it has nowadays. Probably there are still remote villages where bathing in the river (half) naked still takes place. At least I know this is not uncommon in neighbouring Lao which shares a similar cultural.

This (dissenting) voice is re-inforced through the very good Thaiworldview website. In this posting it produces a number of examples of how woman's dress is on the agenda in recent politics, though the views of the government represent a conservative view whereas the modern status is:

'Dressing is an individual's right'.

Elsewhere the author states:

'Skin darkness is not appreciated by Thai people because it is the symbol of the peasant. If one has its skin dark it means that he is working outside. Symbol of beauty is the skin whiteness that is why Chiang Mai girls are so reputed for their beauty. On the contrary "ISAN" women (northeastern part of Thailand), particularly near Cambodia, are not in the standard of the beauty because they have a dark skin. A Thai proverb says "black as a Cambodian". Thai people are puzzled by topless foreigner women on the beach. A normal Thai woman never has such a behavior!'

So not cultural nor religious. It also has racial connotations. Though we could argue that these are his (and my) personal views, the site receives much positive feedback.

And it draws parallels with the study on Bali, Paradise Created by Adrian Vickers, in which he explains how social elites try to distinguish themselves by imitating the then colonial elite and refraining from over exposure by the sun. Thus the lighter one was, the more one was to be part of the elite, i.e. one is not working on the land. This elitism though eventually trickles through the society and refraining from nudity thus becomes the local folklore. However with the advent of tourism, the dress code of the visitors is now reversing this, the less one dresses the more one is showing off that one does not need to work for money and as such this would be the new form of elitism.

'Spring Break Thai Style'

(source).

Goddess of the Confluence:

'Many of the places where I have traveled in Asia, such as Bali and Thailand, seem to be modest and have dress codes where your shoulders and feet must be covered in certain situations, yet women there can be seen walking bare-breasted down the street. It does not seem to be sexual to anyone but foreign tourists from repressed countries'.

So where does this bring us? Unfortunately not very far. The local Thai practice is to soak clothed and anything can be frowned upon, though it's not culturally, nor religous. We can expect changes to happen as affluency permeates the society and western views of society lead to change.

Public hot spring sites are to be taken clothed, the degree to which is dependent on the individual.There is an alternative though, most hot spring sites in Thailand rent out individual cubicles, mostly claustrophobic they contain a tub which gets filled once one pays for the use. Thus one can still take the waters as one would take a bath at home. At least that's my train of thought. However I suspect that groups rent these facilities not to enjoy a fun time letting their hair down, but to avoid having to enjoy the public facilities and thus guaranteed of more sanitary conditions ...

From Kats' Window (on Burma and Thailand) a posting entitled Mind your Manners

'Thankfully, Thai people are the most non-aggressive, friendly, and accepting bunch I have ever come across and are experts at acceptance. When half-naked sunburned backpackers roll into town, it looks extremely bizarre. When visitors have a day of fun sunbathing naked in Muslim areas of Thailand, Thais are not so rude as to point and laugh. But they are disturbed. They view these visitors to their country as being rude. The other side of the coin is that the visitors have money, and money is really important. Millions of tourists bring millions of dollars and are tolerated all the more because of this'.

Though I might have had a private naked dip in one of the aforementioned cubicles, rest assured never in a public hot spring. Then again I have often made use of solitary waterholes (rivers, waterfalls) to enjoy Thailand's natural surroundings as natural as possible. Unseen!

From Tropical Rambles.

A final thought:

'Can skinny dipping save the planet?
The Bite:
Believe it or not, it helps. Swimsuits require energy and transport to produce, while birthday suits require none. But if swimming in the buff just isn't your style, try on some eco-swimwear for size...

The Benefits:

• Sexy style. Give Sports Illustrated's swimsuit models a run for their money in eco-bikinis. Planet-friendly.
• Eco-suits are made from organic and recycled materials, and 1 lb of organic cotton averts 1/3 lb of pesticides and fertilizers.
• Eco-suits offer an eco-friendly, non-nudist way to keep sand from getting into uncomfortable places'.

Btw: Did anyone notice that the to be broadcasted Canadian travel programme , Skinny Dip, has nothing on Thailand nor on Southeast Asia ...

Why?

Followers of Soaking of Southeast Asia may well be scratching their head, why on earth start this site especially if there are only copies of the entries already seen on Soaking in Southeast Asia.

Quite right, well here are my reasons:

• Laying claim to the domain name
• Responding to demand for Thai specific info
• Possibly to market this site separately, though it remains a labour of love.
• To make specific blog entries solely on Thailand soaks.
• Add Thai specific links
  

Though there will be future reports mimicking the aforementioned site I will be looking into wider issues though solely concentrating on Thailand. That means no updates unless it is extremely relevant and calls for a reply. I'll also be breaking the links list down more, back on the main site the never ending list not always helps visitors find what they want.

To help my readers I've included a widget on the Soaking in Southeast Asia site which keeps tabs on entries here, so no need to surf to another web site needlessly.

Happy soaking / Happy reading!

Huh?

Follow the signboards

Saw a sign along the road in Namtok town, Kanchanaburi province. It indicated a left turn to go to Wang Krachae hot spring. It was only 4 kms which was fine, couldn't be too much of search.

It turns out Wang Krachae was also the name of the sub-district. Went past the sub-district office, completed the 4 km, only to find another sign, slightly different to the first one which was placed along the 323 highway, headed for Burma. A right turn this time was required to get to 'Wangkrajae hot spring'. Distance was 3 km. Fine again, getting closer.

The road then slowly deteriorated as well as it got steeper and nearer to the mountainside. Finally the hot spring! But it was eerily silent.
A large car park area was obvious. There were also some small sturdy buildings and the contours of a pool. But much was overgrown.

Where's the hot water?
Getting out of the car disturbed a sunning rat snake; the only sign of life. It slithered away in the direction of two pools. Delicately I went up to the two pools. The greenish water in both of the pools was cool. The two buildings were open and revealed facilities (toilets), both of which could be described to be in a reasonable state of affairs. Looking further around revealed a temple-like structure, in disrepair.

Wang Krachae's not so hot spring: beware of snakes!

Then finally a smaller roofed structure proved to be the hot spring. The source was clear and was hot. However no outlet, so where does the water go? For sure not to the pools. There was also no one around to ask. Will it remain a mystery?

Looks like it, internet is of no help. Only one site, by a Japanese soaker has been able to put a slight mention of Wang Krachae hot spring up on the internet. However translated it reveals less than I discovered:

'Without I find a signboard called "WANGKRACHAEHOTSPRING" along terminal / Nam Toku Station outskirts of the train, R323 on the way and I listen considerably and turned around, but I am good, and understanding it'.

????

Provincial soaks
Prior to heading off for Kanchanaburi, I'd looked into more detail concerning the hot spring sites of the province.

The previously posted Rock Valley I failed to find out about on forehand. Hindad (next blog post) though, is very well-known and a highlight of Kanchanaburi province, so it seems. Others I obtained from a Thai language hot springs list (starts at KC 01 and continues on next page) These are: Toong Chang, Pong Rong (twice (!), but in different locations, one in Sai Yok district, the other in Nong Prue; Pong Rong translates as hot water), Kao Pang (or Khao Pang, otherwise known as Sai Yok Noi waterfall) and Don Lamyai.

Then there are two apparently in Sri Nagarindra in National Park:

'Huai Mae Kamin: there are 2 hot springs, suitable for bathing'.

I've tried to put up links to these two, but Thailands Department of National Parks website somehow fails to be linked deeply. Find your own way around our site, it seems to imply. Which is a great loss to them. Fancy putting all that information on internet and making it near impossible to find, nor to link to! Oh well, I suppose they have their reasons. Unseen Thailand indeed!

The source itself revealed: a roof, four walls, hot water inside and a fence structure.
But what happened? And where does the water go?

But none of these sources revealed Wang Krachae hot spring. Obviously it had seen better times and not so long ago either. But what had changed lately? Does anyone have some answer?

Visited August 2009.

I Love?

Kanchanaburi

The province of Kanchanaburi is a well trodden piece of Thailands tourist path. Besides historical highlights (as in the Burma railway), it excels in natural highlights. In this, the Erawan waterfall meets most tourists expectations of a beautiful tropical waterfall paradise.

But there is much more nature to be discovered. Many more waterfalls and caves. So it may not be surprising that hiking and rafting are increasingly becoming popular pursuits, especially for the more wealthy middle class Bangkok citizens; Bangkok located not more than 2 hours drive from these delights.

Hin Dat hot spring
As said there are a couple of hot springs, non more well-known than that of Hin Dat (or Hindad / Hindard / Hindat / Hin Dad or formerly known as Kuimang; the name on the tickets though is Hindaad). Not only in Kanchanaburi, but Hin Dat rates as one of the more recognized names in hot springs in Thailand.

Located at a fair distance from Kanchanaburi town it's just a km off the near perfect highway 323 heading west. Judging from the ample space for parking, it surely is part of the main tourist road, even a number of coach parking spaces are available. Parking outside the main gate, a small fee was required to enter, though why nationals only get charged 10 Bt and foreigners four times that amount seems a bit weird; do foreigners get more value for money?

Beyond the gate is another parking area with many stalls around, for drinks, food, tourist nick-knacks, souvenirs and orchids / plants. Tickets get checked before a bridge. From the bridge one has a good overview of the hot spring pools themselves. This being a rainy Sunday afternoon around 3 o'clock, the sides of the two pools are lined with soakers, though not many are immersing themselves. Is the water too hot? Just a meter from the pools is a swift flowing stream; it having rained during the preceding days. The banks of the stream are also lined with people half in the water.

Sunday afternoon: packed soakers.

The soak
Leaving a visit for the air-raid shelters (!) for later, I precede to the changing rooms, which are not well-maintained, but probably serve their purpose. Then down to the showers. Oddly it are mostly visitors who are leaving who are using the showers; clearly cleanliness is not an issue.

Finding a dry spot to put my things down is quite a challenge, but once found it's off to find a spot on the side of the pool to adjust to the water. Of course there is still a place available: right next to the source, which is well over 40C apparently. After a couple of minutes I slide into the hotter of the two pools. After a nice soak, I get out and cool off in the stream.

The bank of the stream has been lined with steps of flagstones and though the river current is strong, it's a great pleasure to enjoy a natural cooling off. By the time I'm ready for a second round, the pools are starting to clear of their visitors, possibly having to return to the big smoke. But without the crowds, the soaks are even more enjoyable. A few more rounds follow and to top off a short massage is required. All 'n all a great soak.

Soaking Thai style.

After wrestling back from swimwear to clothing, I walk around the site that includes a number of private soaking bungalows, a temple and the aforementioned air-raid shelters which remained from the second World War. What better protection would you need when soaking?

Background
As stated above Hin Dat is a well-known soak, why remains a mystery. Possibly it's accessibility together with the beautiful location of springs next to swift running stream.

However most mentions of the hot spring concern tourist web sites mentioning the possibility of soaking. Some credit the Japanese occupiers (during WW II) with finding and enhancing these springs:

'.. discovered beside a stream of cool water by Japanese troops during WWII and two cement wells were then constructed at the site'.

Both pools are still there. However there is also the following mention:

'This hot spring has a long history and has been with the local villagers for over 150 years'.

It does seem logical that the hot springs were there before the Second world war, why the Japanese get the credit for discovering them is beyond me. Though no doubt they did enhance and popularise them.

But it does seem that not much has changed since. The site has been enhanced with ample parking spaces, a bridge, changing rooms, toilets, ticket vending office and private pools. The latter though don't seem to be too popular, but they are located on the hill overlooking the site, without access to the stream and thus probably provide a less superior experience. They also cost the foreigner a foot or more, upto 1,000 Bt (~$US 30). Pay more, get less.

Other bloggers mention

• AbsoluteBangkok.com:

  'Well, what else you need when you got large hot water tubs lined with natural stone - and a clean (!) fresh mountain stream two meters away to cool you down again. You could rent private bath tubs, but what would you need narrow walls and a roof for when the sky’s the limit?
  ...
  And don’t trust the name of the nearby Green World Hot Spring & Golf Resort. They have no access to the hot spring water, but talk about repairs and broken pipelines and … screw them.
  All they have is a rotten jacuzzi in the cellar. Go for the real thing at the public bath. The only thing to worry: I always wonder when visiting a public bath in Thailand why you won’t find cleaner toilets than in a Thai public bath. As nobody uses the toilets'.

• Bluestar guesthouse:

  'the springs are a God send'.

• caryn:

  'This one is rather simple, yet it attracts numerous tourist'.

• andydaniels:

  'The springs were really nice, big pools that fit a lot of people and were deep'.

After four: quiet and serene.

Other information
There is also a Hin Dat hot spring festival, each year in November:

'In the festival, there are booths of agricultural products and tourism exhibition of Amphoe Thong Pha Phum'.

The waters are said to have as a healing property for various ailments such as beriberi and rheumatism [1], holy water that can cure diseases [2] and gout [3].

There are two locations to stay overnight nearby: the above mentioned Green Valley which might be more appealing to golfers and the Phatad Valley Hot Springs resort, which actually is still a couple of kms away and has nothing to do with the hot springs!

Nearby are also the Pha Tad watertfalls, probably a great place for a swim. As it is a national park, entry is a hefty 100 Bt, unfortunately during my visit three was too much water to make a swim possible. This site has more info on Pha Tad which are only located some 10 km from Hin Dat.

Gushing waterfalls of PhaTad.

Furthermore it should be pointed out that the hot spring is open til 22.00, which means that a late nite soak and picnic are available. Always good to know in hot Thailand.

Then just a mention about the name, the official name is Hindad, however by far most internet links refer to it being Hin Dat. Can someone explain?

Getting There: Traveling from Kanchanaburi town, one only needs to continue on the main 323 highway towards the Burmese border. Past the entrance to Sai Yok National park, the well signposted hot springs are just off the main road at km marker 123.

Soaking Experience: The natural surroundings and the possibilty to cool down in the adjacent stream make Hin Dat are great place to soak. Also the possibility to stay until well into the night add to a great way to soak. The pools are deep, though the bottom is uneven.

Overall Impression: Positive. A great place to while away a few hours preferably on the day edges, as midday sees many visitors. The food stalls even have western food and the masseurs work full time, such is their appeal.
But I always have doubts about hygiene. Currently in Thailand you can sanitize you hands at every reception desk, though it's disputable whether the swine flu can be obtained over the counter. However without batting an eyelid, all soakers jump in in their already-worn clothing to soak; somehow missing out on the hygiene lessons. Outside of Southeast Asia though, customs (based on hygiene) determine that rigorous cleansing should take place before soaking ...

A you tube on Hin Dat?

Dr. Fish?

Jaws VI?

Kanchanaburi

Out west from Thailand's capital city, Kanachanaburi province is famous for it's waterfalls and it's history, though it's role in the Second World War is one of notoriety as indentured labour by locals and foreign captives were used to construct a railroad to Burma under 'hellish' circumstances.

Less well-known is that Kanachananburi hosts 5 hot springs. There's Hindad, the most famous and another 4 of which I failed to gather much information, despite them being listed. Not on the list is Rock Valley, it's yet to have a Thai name. I'm unsure whether 'Rock Valley' hot springs counts as a hot spring though (see below).

But seeing it prominently sign-posted, the car swerved off the road and uopthe valley in search of this not so Thai-named hot springs.

Rocky Valley
It quickly became apparent that the owners had gone out of their way to attract customers. Despite it being about 10 km off the main highway, at every twist and turn, small signs, some more clearer marked than others, showed the way. In the end it was a well-travelled 1 km dirt road, which to lead to the site.

Perched on the Kwai Noi River, most visitors come from upstream resorts by boat. As the day was drawing to a near, the reception provided an ad-hoc service, explaining that it would be 1 hour before the site would close and it would cost 500 Bt (~$US 15). That sounded steep, but a quick tour showed prime pools simply waiting for a late customer.

There were a number of pools laid out along each other, using local rocks with some cement walls and floors. Here was defintly an enhanced resort! Plants had been added, a high screen to protect the bathers from the sun and all with a view of the river.

The soak
So 500 Bt poorer, I was proivided with a towel and a locker key and a pair of local style bathing pants. The changing facilities were extensive and certainly encouraged a cleansing shower before the soak. After hitching the pants up and making sure that they stayed there, it was time to test the waters. I had been forewarned not to try the hottest option, but a more cooler variant. This was a 36-38C pool which was large with a number of coves. These could be used if you might have problems with the throngs of fellow soakers, but there were none. In two corners of these coves, showers and waterfalls had been created.

Dr Fish pool, for real.

The hotter pool was 40-42C and was hot without being too hot. Again the pool was very tastefully landscaped. Next up was the 'Dr Fish' pool: a foot deep pool packed with small tilapia. These fish went into a feeding frenzy once my feet stood still long enough. But the ensuing laughs didn't help to keep my feet still; eventually my feet must have become less tatstier or I got immune to the feeling of hundreds of nibling fish jaws.

After this hilarious soak, a hottish herbal bath followed, not-so natural any more. Herbs enhacing the qualitiy of the water are tumeric, kaffir lime, casumunar, lemon grass, tamarind, Acacia, pandusus, rose and ilang-ilang. And then a final dip in the cool pool with view of the river. That was about all avaialable in the alloted one hour.

Background
Officially called Rock Valley Hot Spring and Fish Spa, it's part of the River Kwai Village Hotel, located on the other side but still a few km's up stream. The hotel boasts being the first up-river jungle style resort in Kanchanaburi province but by now there are many more, both shores dotted with various types of resorts.

The hot spring has it's own web-site, which gives a good introduction, but fails to give correct indications of location, while also the price is not mentioned. Another hotel web site already mentioned that the price was 450 Bt, which seems a bit unfair then to charge the independent tourist a surcharge just for the sake of it.

However the web-site (and other information made available) does prominently promote itself; mention is even made of the spa in a Bangkok Post article ( March 1, 2009) Info obtained also indicates what standards the waters adhere to, independently verifierd by the Thai Department of ScienceService, IQA Laboratory company which states

that the waters are safe and can be used for soaking.

What's more, the need to used sanctioned soakwear means that efforts are in place to at least keep the water from being contaminated, no fully dressed nor are swimmers allowed, only what they provide, a unicum in Thailand I believe.

It is unclear though, whether these are waters obtained are from natural springs. There are no sulphorous smells and the spa itself mentions that the waters are obtained from 20-30m down, where it has a temperature of 58-60 degrees.

The info obtained reveals that the scaly nibblers are "Tilapia gangsters', which

nibble deteriorating skin cells or exfoliate skin, thus stimulating better blood circulation.

Oddly though there is little to none other info outside of Thai websites and You Tube vid's.


Getting There: Rock Valley is located up the main 323 highway from Kanchanaburi town to the Burmese border. Just beyond the turn-off for Sai-Yok district a clear sign will tell you when to turn left. It takes a right and a left turn before crossing the Kwai Noi river. On the other side, you turn right and follow the river upstream for 9 km's when you cross a small stream and make a sharp turn to your left. The entrance road is 500m up from here on your right. The spa is a km down this good track.

Soaking Experience: It's a great soak, well adapted to regular users, though supposedly the well-heeled ones. Pity is that there is no big bassin, nor more private facilities; however the different bassins provide for a good and varied experience. There's also a drinking and eating facility. And it's also possible to take a massage. Friendly and helpful staff.

Overall Impression: Best soaking spa in Thailand? Could be: the pools are in nice settings, have been naturally enhanced. There is variation in the number of pools and what they are intended for. Beautiful setting.

One of the coves of the not-so-hot pool, with a 'shower'.

Visited August 2009.

Upgraded and officially endorsed

Loy Krathongs for sale at the hot springs entrance. These 'rafts' made from banana leaves and flowers are released on rivers and or ponds during the full moon of November.

'Many Thai believe that floating a krathong will create good luck'.

The day of my visit co-incided with the last day of Loy Krathong celebrations which are celebrated elaborately in these surroundings.

Many hot springs in Thailand (or elsewhere in Southeast Asia) tend to be elusive. Largely undeveloped, they have little value for the 'outsider' it's presumed. Contrary to this, the hot springs of Phra Ruang (or Bueng Sap) are easy to be found. From nearly every nook or cranny of Kamphaeng Phet province (Central Thailand) signboards have been erected directing all those wishing to do so to proceed without delay. So, this time no long story about how we eventually find this hot spring.

Entering
Instead, after following the signboards we draw up at an extensive parking area, which obviously is the place. There a few stalls, selling drinks and / or snacks situated around the parking area, as well as a massage place (not open) and a stall selling Loy Krathongs (see photo above blog entry) for the following evening.

Grand entrance

The hot springs have been well-walled and the grand-ish entrance gate is the only way in. Despite there being a guard post, no entrance fee is required. Opposite the guardpost, there's a newly built temple. Actually the whole hot springs site has been newly constructed. The temple has been adorned with a huge amount of ceramic roosters and receives many visitors by the looks of offerings.
Surprisingly just before the temple, one can have one's picture taken which is then attached to a commemorative plate: Soaking in Southeast Asia was here! Tacky souvenir?

Entrance temple
The temple is, I believe, dedicated to King Naresuan, once ruler of the empire of Thailand (during the Ayutthaya period) who, time and again, managed to defend his kingdom from a Burmese onslaught. His name is tied in with the symbol of the fighting cock, as when he was young and held captive in Burma:

'At one point, the Burmese Crown Prince challenged Prince Naresuan to a game of fighting cocks which resulted in the Crown Prince losing his bird and bet. In anger, frustration and jealousy the Crown Prince exclaimed "This vassal of a cock is really impudent". To which Prince Naresuan responded "Not only can this cock bet for money, it can also fight for kingdoms"!Source

The temple with it's roosters

Ploy?
The establishment of this temple seems to be part of a ploy to popularize visits to the hot springs.

Likewise the new name of the hot springs, Phra Ruang, refers to the Phra Ruang dynasty, the first ruler of which, King Sri Indraditya,

'... declared independence of his territory from Khmer control [Angkor Wat] and its prohibitive taxes, ...'

In so doing, he established the Kingdom of Sukhothai, which managed to expand well beyond the current borders of Thailand. He was thus referred to as Phra Ruang, the Glorious Prince. History lessons @ Soaking in Southeast Asia, tout gratuit!

But what has this to do with the hot springs? Well, as said, there seems to be ploy to attract (domestic) tourists, with the temple and with the name change; previously the hot springs used to be called Bueng Sap, which translates as 'wealthy swamp'. Now, that doesn't sound very attractive, however accurate it may have been.

The grounds
After strolling the 50 meters or so, on the right is large half open building. There's a desk with a lady behind, a fridge for drinks and some snacks are for sale. Otherwise there are many exhibition cases, most showing the change from what it was (a swamp with lot's of reeds) into the 'showcase' of now: a walled-in case of concrete and water!

Exhibit no. 1: Photo of 4 local (?) belles (?) soaking in one of the brand new private soaking cubicles

Healthy?
The reason for the change in settings is due to the perception that the waters here, are some of the best in all Thailand. Citing the Tourism Authority of Thailand's (TAT) Kamphaeng Phet leaflet (of July 2008):

'In accordance with an examination by the [Thai] Ministry of Public Health, it contains neither contaminated substances nor diseases which are dangerous'.

Which a relief, but is it a real endorsement? Actually despite not citing any positive about the waters, these hot springs are being promoted as a 'health tourism destination', another one of former Thai PM Thaksins idea's. This site though adds:

'..., historical belief tells that water from hot spring [Phra Ruang] can be used to cure several illness; such as muscle aches'

Muscle aches, but does not hot water always do this?

However, Thailand Energy end Environment Network in it's 'Potential hazards of pollutants in Thai hot springs', cites cases of Legionell pneumophila found at Phra Ruang, but adds:

'... they might have affected a relatively large number of persons exposed but not be recognized as the cause of disease (Legionaires' disease and Pontiac fever)'.

Exhibit no. 2: 92 year lady attributes her health at her age to the waters of Phra Ruang. It's in the newspaper, so it's true!

Back to the preceding description (of the TAT) that includes the following information:

'This hot spring is a natural phenomenon, emerging from underground through 5 spots. The temperature of the water is around 40-65C.
...
Currently the surroundings of this Phra Ruang Hot Spring have been renovated and serve as a health tourism destination and a relaxation venue'.

It's good, this assurance, of a 'natural phenomenon' as there's not much natural to the surroundings anymore.

How to get healthy?
Ongoing from the main building are about 5 'cubicles' (see photo's above) where you can bathe behind a locked door! Safety first.
Then there's a huge pond with a spouting fountain. Between the pond and the main building are a number of 'tubs' in a broad concrete plain, some containing hot water.
Then finally around a corner, a small shallow pond flanks the larger pond. In it, you can soak your feet, what a great idea. A 15 minute soak is sufficient.

Phra Ruang, a great place to soak sore feet?

Surroundings
The direct surroundings of the hot springs are low rolling hills, planted mostly with cassava, corn, sugarcane or, in more wetter area's, rice. To the north lie the mountains of Ramkhamhaeng National Park. A great place to waste time, much better than the hot springs themselves, to tell you the truth. Especially the falls of Sai Roong, though like visiting the hot springs, you'll need your own wheels.

The best place to stay nearby is the provincial capital with the same name, Kamphaeng Phet, a former outpost of the Sukhothai kingdom. Though Sukhothai is also not too far away. One option is to stay at the Scenic Riverside Resort (beware, terrible accompanying music when accessing this website!) in Kamphaeng Phet; one of the best resorts I've stayed in ever, located in Kamphaeng Phet town itself. The bungalows are relatively cheap and are huge. The grounds are beautiful and the resort has real character. It includes a pool and the Ping river flows right in front of the resort.

Kamphaeng Phet town, is also located near a few national parks (N.P.) towards the Burmese border, such as Klong Lan N.P. and Klong Wang Chao N.P. And like in Sukhothai, the Loy Krathong festivities are a great time to spend a couple of days here.

Getting There: As stated the springs are well sign boarded. A precise route is to follow Highway 101 north (towards Sukhothai) out of Kamphaeng Phet town for 13 km's and then a left and 12 km's up this road you'll come upon the springs, can't be missed.

Soaking Experience: Well, regular readers of this blog will know that I prefer more natural settings and tend to dislike being hemmed in by 4 walls. As such I didn't take a full soak; besides it was just past lunch time, the hottest part of day. Maybe in the evening I would have been tempted to soak, but that wasn't the case. The feet soak though was not too bad, considerable effort had been awarded to making the site as comfortable as possible.

Overall Impression: Compared to the 'before' situation, the upgrading of the site may have been a little over the top. However, the old situation did not look tempting either. The main point though was that while I was visiting there were quite a few Thai visitors which at least gave the expansive site some character., though it still felt deserted which is quite uncommon on a national holiday. Then again we've seen better, but in the surroundings of the northern parts of Thai plains (where Kamphaeng Phet lies), there are hardly others.

Charming park?

Visited October 2008.