Etiquette of soaking in Thailand

One of the trickiest aspects of enjoying hot springs and (commercial) spa's in general is how to blend in, each county having different 'rules'. Naturally Thailand has it's own.

However the way Thai enjoy their hot springs are very rule free, so it seems. It's nothing like the rules set in Northeast Asia nor the different conventions in Europe. Failing any specific guideline for enjoying hot springs in Thailand, what follows are this blogs view of what the rules are and the the background to these rules.

In general, Thai never take a shower before hitting the hotter springs, don't ask me why. Otherwise extremely meticulous in cleanliness matters, the Thai attitude to hot springs (and bathing in natural water bodies in general) seems quite the opposite. No showering, no cleaning, that's not too difficult to remember.

Though this aspect might be OK for lakes, sea's and rivers, I can imagine some are already put off soaking. Therefore I ask you not to proceed ...

Bathing attire in Thailand is nearly non-existent. But not in the sense that the Thai love a skinny dip, it's quite the opposite. Taking the waters means doing so fully clothed! In some cases you will see soakers change on forehand, but most continue to jump in with the same clothes they have been using all day. Yuck! Quite unThai.
Therefore it's advisable to avoid well visited bathing places, the water can only be a cesspool. Remember that sanitary quality is at it's best, very poor here.

But when researching for this article I can across many websites of famous commercial spa's where nudity is de-rigeur. Six Senses, Katathani, Banyan Tree and Pimalai (as examples) all have photo's featuring naked (but tastefully avoiding anything revealing) local ladies (what about us gents?). So can one conclude that such practice only exist on private land?

Probably. Even toplessness (but naturally (not!) this only applies to half of the world population) can be prosecuted if taking place on/in a Thai National Park.

Looking into the etiquette of bathing in general the following (from Wikitravel) is an often repeated paragraph:

'Swimsuits should not be revealing — many Thais swim in full clothing. Women should never go topless on the beach, especially beaches in national parks, as this is illegal and most Thais consider it offensive in the extreme. Women are sometimes advised to wear a T-shirt over their swimming gear; this is more important at primarily-Thai beach resorts, and will be almost entirely ignored at the most heavily westernized areas'.

Couchsurf:

'When swimming at the non tourist areas it would be polite for women to wear shorts and a t-shirt, not bikini'.

Others add:

'Now imagine this, Thais don't sunbathe topless, in fact they don't sunbathe at all, if they did you can bet it wouldn't be topless. Imagine what they would think seeing you with your breasts exposed to the world, or worse still, going for a skinny dip!'

Asiatours.net:

'Revealing clothing, worn by either men or women, is a little disgusting to most Thais. Short shorts, low cut dresses and T-shirts and skimpy bathing suits come into this category. Shorts are considered improper and low-class attire in Thailand, only acceptable for schoolchildren, street beggars, and common laborers …not wealthy tourists! Except at beach resorts, you should never wear skimpy shorts, halter tops, low-cut blouses, or anything else that will offend the locals'.

Or into.asia.com:

'Is it okay to go topless / nude on beaches in Thailand ? This is frowned upon in Thai culture, and you will almost never see a Thai doing it. Nevertheless, going topless on some beaches on Ko Samui, Phuket, Ko Pha-Ngan and other very touristy islands is commonplace. The locals here are used to foreigners and don't care so much. In less touristy places, particularly where there are Thai families on holiday, it is considered rude and offensive. Going nude at beaches is illegal in Thailand, and is impossible pretty much everywhere. If you really want to do this, your best bet is to find somewhere remote where you are not sure not to be seen'.

These all lead you to believe that even wearing bathers would mean a cultural faux-pas. But is that really the case?

A faux-pas possibly, but not necessarily a cultural one. From Thaivisa.com forum:

'Against Thai culture? So a topless statue and this mural at the Grand Palace are no longer appropriate? It was only 50-60 years ago, when Thais were being persuaded to move away from their "topless culture" to dress more Western. ...
So 50 years ago, we have a government encouraging Thai women to put their shirts on. Today we have culture 'experts' trying to tell you that it's in line with "Thai Culture" to dress modestly'.

'A Thai government poster from the Marshal Plaek Pibulsonggram
era (1938-1945) promoting the "civilized" form of dress'.

Left walking around in a lungi (man and woman topless) not allowed anymore.

One can imagine that back in the time before the poster was printed bathing au-naturel had little of the supposedly cultural baggage it has nowadays. Probably there are still remote villages where bathing in the river (half) naked still takes place. At least I know this is not uncommon in neighbouring Lao which shares a similar cultural.

This (dissenting) voice is re-inforced through the very good Thaiworldview website. In this posting it produces a number of examples of how woman's dress is on the agenda in recent politics, though the views of the government represent a conservative view whereas the modern status is:

'Dressing is an individual's right'.

Elsewhere the author states:

'Skin darkness is not appreciated by Thai people because it is the symbol of the peasant. If one has its skin dark it means that he is working outside. Symbol of beauty is the skin whiteness that is why Chiang Mai girls are so reputed for their beauty. On the contrary "ISAN" women (northeastern part of Thailand), particularly near Cambodia, are not in the standard of the beauty because they have a dark skin. A Thai proverb says "black as a Cambodian". Thai people are puzzled by topless foreigner women on the beach. A normal Thai woman never has such a behavior!'

So not cultural nor religious. It also has racial connotations. Though we could argue that these are his (and my) personal views, the site receives much positive feedback.

And it draws parallels with the study on Bali, Paradise Created by Adrian Vickers, in which he explains how social elites try to distinguish themselves by imitating the then colonial elite and refraining from over exposure by the sun. Thus the lighter one was, the more one was to be part of the elite, i.e. one is not working on the land. This elitism though eventually trickles through the society and refraining from nudity thus becomes the local folklore. However with the advent of tourism, the dress code of the visitors is now reversing this, the less one dresses the more one is showing off that one does not need to work for money and as such this would be the new form of elitism.

'Spring Break Thai Style'

(source).

Goddess of the Confluence:

'Many of the places where I have traveled in Asia, such as Bali and Thailand, seem to be modest and have dress codes where your shoulders and feet must be covered in certain situations, yet women there can be seen walking bare-breasted down the street. It does not seem to be sexual to anyone but foreign tourists from repressed countries'.

So where does this bring us? Unfortunately not very far. The local Thai practice is to soak clothed and anything can be frowned upon, though it's not culturally, nor religous. We can expect changes to happen as affluency permeates the society and western views of society lead to change.

Public hot spring sites are to be taken clothed, the degree to which is dependent on the individual.There is an alternative though, most hot spring sites in Thailand rent out individual cubicles, mostly claustrophobic they contain a tub which gets filled once one pays for the use. Thus one can still take the waters as one would take a bath at home. At least that's my train of thought. However I suspect that groups rent these facilities not to enjoy a fun time letting their hair down, but to avoid having to enjoy the public facilities and thus guaranteed of more sanitary conditions ...

From Kats' Window (on Burma and Thailand) a posting entitled Mind your Manners

'Thankfully, Thai people are the most non-aggressive, friendly, and accepting bunch I have ever come across and are experts at acceptance. When half-naked sunburned backpackers roll into town, it looks extremely bizarre. When visitors have a day of fun sunbathing naked in Muslim areas of Thailand, Thais are not so rude as to point and laugh. But they are disturbed. They view these visitors to their country as being rude. The other side of the coin is that the visitors have money, and money is really important. Millions of tourists bring millions of dollars and are tolerated all the more because of this'.

Though I might have had a private naked dip in one of the aforementioned cubicles, rest assured never in a public hot spring. Then again I have often made use of solitary waterholes (rivers, waterfalls) to enjoy Thailand's natural surroundings as natural as possible. Unseen!

From Tropical Rambles.

A final thought:

'Can skinny dipping save the planet?
The Bite:
Believe it or not, it helps. Swimsuits require energy and transport to produce, while birthday suits require none. But if swimming in the buff just isn't your style, try on some eco-swimwear for size...

The Benefits:

• Sexy style. Give Sports Illustrated's swimsuit models a run for their money in eco-bikinis. Planet-friendly.
• Eco-suits are made from organic and recycled materials, and 1 lb of organic cotton averts 1/3 lb of pesticides and fertilizers.
• Eco-suits offer an eco-friendly, non-nudist way to keep sand from getting into uncomfortable places'.

Btw: Did anyone notice that the to be broadcasted Canadian travel programme , Skinny Dip, has nothing on Thailand nor on Southeast Asia ...

Fang

Fang geyser blowing

Fang hot springs rates, in Thailand, as one of it's most famous. The Thai language travel magazine 'Places and Prices' recent 'special issue' mentions Fang as well as Sankhampaeng, Pong Dued, Thapai Ranong and Jaeson as their top hot springs in the country.

After already visiting 3 of these aforementioned, as well as some others, I must agree that Fang certainly is worth a visit, though I haven't visited all thai hot springs (yet?) to be able to ascertain that it is one of the best! But what about its soaking qualities? Let's find out!

The hot springs are situated in Mae Fang National Park, where the park headquarters are also situated; so you have to pay the entrance fees, though oddly these were only 200 THB, which is roughly 10 $US. We came early in the morning with a slight drizzle coming down. We were also the only visitors at that moment. Supposedly round mid-day things get busier when tour groups on their way to Chiang Rai from Chiang Mai stop for some sightseeing.

One can park the car directly next to the hot springs 'park' which has been created around the hot springs. Through this park are a number of hot springs. Next to the car parking is a visitors center, though with little background on the hot springs; focusing on the whole of the national park, situated on a mountain range with Burma. At the back of the hot springs park one can see a large steel pipe which apparently carries hot steam to a geothermal power plant, just outside the national park.

Just one of the springs

The main highlight of the park is the geyser, which spouts every half hour for a couple of minutes.

From the Mae Fang National Park information folder:

'Hot Spring: A natural hot spring, produced by underground heat, emits water with a temperature of about 50-87 degrees C. Several hot springs can be found within the area of 10 rai, the biggest which can produce steam up to 30-40 meters in height'.

Despite using the hot springs for electricity generation purposes and simultaneously being a focal point for tourism, authorities have been able to maintain a naturalness to the area, as well as maintaining safety and providing tourists the opportunity to go along the various hot springs. No refuse and standards of maintenance were evidently high.

Mae Fang National Park Hot Springs Private Soaks: tasteful from the outside, prison-like on the inside.

The authorities have also put a considerable effort in providing bathing facilities. A raised walkway over /next to a pond provides access to private facilities, which can be rented. This kind of facilities I fail to understand. Why would anyone travel long distance to visit a natural wonder only to lock oneself in a cell which in western society would not even be a prison cell? It's also a phenomena that is not necessarily Thai or non-western. Last year, I visited New Zealand and on 1 occasion rented such a 'cell'. Though it looked like a good idea at the moment, we hardly used it. Yes, you can pursue your own dress code, but you exclude yourself from the surroundings: is it rainy, sunny, windy, are birds whistling, is the vegetation green, who are my neighbours, what's my son up to? No way of knowing. I personally would like to soak 'au naturel' whenever, where ever, but somehow world societal norms are set against this. Beats me why?
I have also been to a couple of hot springs in Nepal, oddly enough those not visited by foreigners were also the most relaxed on the dress code. Most visitors bathed in their underwear, with women mostly topless. As nearly everybody's underwear was threadbare, small, flat slate rocks were used, so as to make sure no one could look up your backside! Large communal pools, none of these small private facilities.
Why not make more tasteful, private facilities, partially open, screened off naturally if society so requires? Keeps everyone (including myself more or less happy).

I am digressing, yes. Well besides the small cells, there were also tasteful communal pools (see photo below) as well as steam sauna's. As the prudes had won again, these (both the pools and the sauna) were sex-disaggregated. As we were the only visitors we decided to flaunt these rules as tourists everywhere tend to. The water was only lukewarm, though not too cold, but hardly a hot soaking. If you need a massage, these kind of facilities are also provided, which altogether is not such a bad idea.

Public tubs: the men's tubs are well designed, allowing to soak the surroundings as well

Getting There: Fang Hot Springs are situated at the end of road number 4054, which originates from the Fang-Muang Chum 4017 road. The main turn off highway 107 (Chiang Mai - Mae Chan- Chiang Rai) is well signed, however the turn off to road 4054 (a couple of hundred meters from the main road) is less well signposted. In all it's about 10 km from Fang town. As it is on a dead end side road, there is absolutely no public transport.

Soaking Experience: see above. In general the soaks are good.

Overall Impression: very good, certainly well worth the label of being one of Thailand's best hot springs.

Visited October 2007.

More info

• From Thailand.com:

  'Fang Hot Spring
  The Fang Hot Springs are located at Ban Pin in Fang district, 163 km north of Chiang Mai city along the Chiang Mai Tha Ton Road (Highway No. 107). Turn left at km 153 for 11 km to Ban Pin.
  Fifty hot springs occupy a ten-acre forest setting. Three boil continuously with a strong smell of sulphur. Water temperatures at the springs range from 90° C to 100° C. Unfortunately, the ambience of the area is slightly spoiled by the pipes that have been placed to take off the hot water to feed the nearby geothermal power station'.

• Concerning the geothermal station, in 'Case stories of small scale geothermal power plants' by Daniel N Schochet (2000) a presentation at the 'World Geothermal Congress' in 2000, the following refers to Fang:

  'The Fang geothermal resource, located in a rural agricultural setting near Chang Mai in north central Thailand, utilizes three free flowing wells producing approximately 500 liters/minute of hot water at 116 C. One binary OEC module, rated at 300 kW was installed in 1989 (See Figure 7). The OEC condenser is water cooled by a once through flow of river water. The project produces between 150 and 250 kW, with seasonal variations, with excess heat used for cold storage, crop drying and a spa. (Forte 1989)'.