Leaving the best for last?

Heading for Porn
The town, néé the province of Ranong, is synonymous with hot springs. However this link is entirely focused on the existence of Raksawarin hot spring, located not far from downtown Ranong. Developed and overdeveloped, this hot spring is hardy a natural feature anymore, even though it is a magnet for passing tourists, mostly locals.

But Ranong province is well-endowed with many other hot springs. On a relative scale. Including the above Raksawarin, Porn Rang (or Phon Rang) hot spring is the third hot spring on a 10 km stretch; Phu Lam Phi being the other. Elsewhere within the province are more hot springs with little or no information available.

Porn Rang seems to have survived the scourge of over-development or inadept development as it is located within a national park (Namtok Ngao N.P.). Though in Thailand that's not necesarily a guarantee, the hot spring of Porn Rang is certainly tastefully developed.

Hoopla
Not so long ago, much was made of pumping in more money to develop Porn. See Soaking in Siam's short exposé of last year. The ambitious Ranong Provincial Administrative Organisation chairman is quoted as hoping Porn Rang would become a major tourist attraction.

Gracefully, other than a well-signposted smooth entrance road and a big car-park, the bus loads of tourists have not added this soaking site to their stop-and-go loads of to-be-experienced sites. Because, despite all the hoopla, Porn Rang is a hot spring worth a visit. And a soak.


The car park looks ominous, but beyond the small entrance gate, one walks along a small stream towards a weir. This being late afternoon, there are many locals, but only locals.

Beyond the weir, but on the same bank, are a few sala's with really nice hot pools. After a soak, one can jump in the adjacent stream to cool off and let little fish nibble your toes, no need to order the Dr. Fish treatment here!


Crossing the weir, there are more wells and roofed pools. Downstream are some older constructions, and a new foot bath. Even further downstream is a nice section with hot pools on either side of the stream and across the stream, rocks have made a nice pool.

Just one of the pools, waiting for soakers (or simply too hot?)

Changing facilities and even toilets are located near each villa. We change and go for a soak. Problem no. 1 is the intense heat, especially in the smaller pools. On the opposite side the bigger pool is more bearable and a great soak ensures whilst the evening encapsulates the surroundings. Slowly the sun is setting.

Porn Rang really is an exceptionally (for Thailand) attractive place for an evening soak. It's odd that tourists are yet to wash up here, why on earth would masses head for cemented-over imitations of what was originally there? Beats me.

Two of the springs

It may seem odd, but the above mentioned web-links are actually the only info available on the internet ...

Getting here: From Ranong town, head south on the main highway 4 for roughly 6 km and take the signposted turn towards the hills. The road winds itself up into the rolling foothills about 1,5 km away. The road finishes at the hot spring car park (see below). Follow the link on panoramio.


Soaking experience: With the wide choice of different pools, all very clean and the opportunity to soak in the adjacent stream this must be heaven. However if clothing optional were even a distant dream, heaven would have been a step closer. For me that is.

Overall impression: Well-organized, well thought through, not over run, excellent experience, a must.

The river

Cool

Is it a spring?

ABC
Spelling Thai hot springs gives it's own problems. Phu Toei is just one of the many problems encountered with finding a hot spring. Alternatively I've seen this as Puteuay, Pu Toei, Puteu and Phu Thoei. Luckily it's a larger village and as such not so difficult to find (I wish).

Having had the opportunity to visit Phetchabun (or Phetchaboon or either without the h) over the past week, I decided to visit this hot spring, if only because it's along the main highway to the provincial capital. I actually was expecting some directions on how to find this place, but instead drove straight through the village and when asking around was eventually lead to a different village altogether (see upcoming blog entry). So I stopped on my way back to Bangkok.

Spa
The springs are apparently smack bang in the center of the large village, just behind a Chinese temple.

About half a hectare in size, a public park has been created and only recently renovated as it included many new-looking play and fitness apparatus. Well-maintained, there are a couple of ponds, none of which looked very hot.

At the back of the park is a modern looking spa and early morning I inquired if it was possible to bath. It was, but only if I would like to wait for 20 minutes. Probably so they could fill the tub? Flow must be a trickle. Anyway, no worries and 20 minutes later the tub was ready.
I was taken inside, received towels and disposable underwear (?) was directed to changing cubicle. Before changing though, showers were pointed out as well as a big modern jacuzzi, all inside and very clean and modern.

Well after donning the disposable underwear I had the jacuzzi for myself. Low and behold, it was cool water! Weird, maybe should have waited longer? Anyway nothing to be done about it, but to enjoy the bath.

Behind the veil

Cold?
Phu Toei certainly is noted for it's hot spring. That said, the Thailand Energy and Environment Network mention that the temperature of this spring as 32 C, which it wasn't. Elsewhere on their site they also imply the temperature as being 30 C, who knows maybe after more research they would have found out it was closer to 20 C which was what it felt like.

According to Erfurt-Cooper & Cooper (2009) this would mean it to be a cold spring, at best tepid (25-34 C).

Spring with pipes

There is not much real info on internet most seem to use the following text:

'It is a natural hot spring, emerging to the surface. The area has been developed into a health tourism attraction and a relaxing venue. There are daily services of mineral water bathing, spa, body massage, and foot massage provided from 9.00 a.m. – 8.00 p.m'.

This site includes at least a picture of the baths.

Getting there: From Bangkok take highway 21 towards Phetchabun from Saraburi. Phu Toei is located 44 km from the Chai Badan turnoff. The hot springs park is in the middle of town on the eastern side of the highway, partly hidden by a Chinese temple.

Soaking experience: This is the first place in Thailand where I have seen that facilities have been created expressly for bathing (and wellness) and run by a private company. The facilities were excellent as was the surrounding park. Pity that the water was not warmer ....

Overall impression: Excellent, if only the water had been hotter ...

Notes:
Erfurt-Cooper, P. & M. Cooper (2009) Health and Wellness Tourism. Spa and Hot Springs. Aspects of Tourism: 40. Channel View Publications, Bristol, United Kingdom.

Etiquette of soaking in Thailand

One of the trickiest aspects of enjoying hot springs and (commercial) spa's in general is how to blend in, each county having different 'rules'. Naturally Thailand has it's own.

However the way Thai enjoy their hot springs are very rule free, so it seems. It's nothing like the rules set in Northeast Asia nor the different conventions in Europe. Failing any specific guideline for enjoying hot springs in Thailand, what follows are this blogs view of what the rules are and the the background to these rules.

In general, Thai never take a shower before hitting the hotter springs, don't ask me why. Otherwise extremely meticulous in cleanliness matters, the Thai attitude to hot springs (and bathing in natural water bodies in general) seems quite the opposite. No showering, no cleaning, that's not too difficult to remember.

Though this aspect might be OK for lakes, sea's and rivers, I can imagine some are already put off soaking. Therefore I ask you not to proceed ...

Bathing attire in Thailand is nearly non-existent. But not in the sense that the Thai love a skinny dip, it's quite the opposite. Taking the waters means doing so fully clothed! In some cases you will see soakers change on forehand, but most continue to jump in with the same clothes they have been using all day. Yuck! Quite unThai.
Therefore it's advisable to avoid well visited bathing places, the water can only be a cesspool. Remember that sanitary quality is at it's best, very poor here.

But when researching for this article I can across many websites of famous commercial spa's where nudity is de-rigeur. Six Senses, Katathani, Banyan Tree and Pimalai (as examples) all have photo's featuring naked (but tastefully avoiding anything revealing) local ladies (what about us gents?). So can one conclude that such practice only exist on private land?

Probably. Even toplessness (but naturally (not!) this only applies to half of the world population) can be prosecuted if taking place on/in a Thai National Park.

Looking into the etiquette of bathing in general the following (from Wikitravel) is an often repeated paragraph:

'Swimsuits should not be revealing — many Thais swim in full clothing. Women should never go topless on the beach, especially beaches in national parks, as this is illegal and most Thais consider it offensive in the extreme. Women are sometimes advised to wear a T-shirt over their swimming gear; this is more important at primarily-Thai beach resorts, and will be almost entirely ignored at the most heavily westernized areas'.

Couchsurf:

'When swimming at the non tourist areas it would be polite for women to wear shorts and a t-shirt, not bikini'.

Others add:

'Now imagine this, Thais don't sunbathe topless, in fact they don't sunbathe at all, if they did you can bet it wouldn't be topless. Imagine what they would think seeing you with your breasts exposed to the world, or worse still, going for a skinny dip!'

Asiatours.net:

'Revealing clothing, worn by either men or women, is a little disgusting to most Thais. Short shorts, low cut dresses and T-shirts and skimpy bathing suits come into this category. Shorts are considered improper and low-class attire in Thailand, only acceptable for schoolchildren, street beggars, and common laborers …not wealthy tourists! Except at beach resorts, you should never wear skimpy shorts, halter tops, low-cut blouses, or anything else that will offend the locals'.

Or into.asia.com:

'Is it okay to go topless / nude on beaches in Thailand ? This is frowned upon in Thai culture, and you will almost never see a Thai doing it. Nevertheless, going topless on some beaches on Ko Samui, Phuket, Ko Pha-Ngan and other very touristy islands is commonplace. The locals here are used to foreigners and don't care so much. In less touristy places, particularly where there are Thai families on holiday, it is considered rude and offensive. Going nude at beaches is illegal in Thailand, and is impossible pretty much everywhere. If you really want to do this, your best bet is to find somewhere remote where you are not sure not to be seen'.

These all lead you to believe that even wearing bathers would mean a cultural faux-pas. But is that really the case?

A faux-pas possibly, but not necessarily a cultural one. From Thaivisa.com forum:

'Against Thai culture? So a topless statue and this mural at the Grand Palace are no longer appropriate? It was only 50-60 years ago, when Thais were being persuaded to move away from their "topless culture" to dress more Western. ...
So 50 years ago, we have a government encouraging Thai women to put their shirts on. Today we have culture 'experts' trying to tell you that it's in line with "Thai Culture" to dress modestly'.

'A Thai government poster from the Marshal Plaek Pibulsonggram
era (1938-1945) promoting the "civilized" form of dress'.

Left walking around in a lungi (man and woman topless) not allowed anymore.

One can imagine that back in the time before the poster was printed bathing au-naturel had little of the supposedly cultural baggage it has nowadays. Probably there are still remote villages where bathing in the river (half) naked still takes place. At least I know this is not uncommon in neighbouring Lao which shares a similar cultural.

This (dissenting) voice is re-inforced through the very good Thaiworldview website. In this posting it produces a number of examples of how woman's dress is on the agenda in recent politics, though the views of the government represent a conservative view whereas the modern status is:

'Dressing is an individual's right'.

Elsewhere the author states:

'Skin darkness is not appreciated by Thai people because it is the symbol of the peasant. If one has its skin dark it means that he is working outside. Symbol of beauty is the skin whiteness that is why Chiang Mai girls are so reputed for their beauty. On the contrary "ISAN" women (northeastern part of Thailand), particularly near Cambodia, are not in the standard of the beauty because they have a dark skin. A Thai proverb says "black as a Cambodian". Thai people are puzzled by topless foreigner women on the beach. A normal Thai woman never has such a behavior!'

So not cultural nor religious. It also has racial connotations. Though we could argue that these are his (and my) personal views, the site receives much positive feedback.

And it draws parallels with the study on Bali, Paradise Created by Adrian Vickers, in which he explains how social elites try to distinguish themselves by imitating the then colonial elite and refraining from over exposure by the sun. Thus the lighter one was, the more one was to be part of the elite, i.e. one is not working on the land. This elitism though eventually trickles through the society and refraining from nudity thus becomes the local folklore. However with the advent of tourism, the dress code of the visitors is now reversing this, the less one dresses the more one is showing off that one does not need to work for money and as such this would be the new form of elitism.

'Spring Break Thai Style'

(source).

Goddess of the Confluence:

'Many of the places where I have traveled in Asia, such as Bali and Thailand, seem to be modest and have dress codes where your shoulders and feet must be covered in certain situations, yet women there can be seen walking bare-breasted down the street. It does not seem to be sexual to anyone but foreign tourists from repressed countries'.

So where does this bring us? Unfortunately not very far. The local Thai practice is to soak clothed and anything can be frowned upon, though it's not culturally, nor religous. We can expect changes to happen as affluency permeates the society and western views of society lead to change.

Public hot spring sites are to be taken clothed, the degree to which is dependent on the individual.There is an alternative though, most hot spring sites in Thailand rent out individual cubicles, mostly claustrophobic they contain a tub which gets filled once one pays for the use. Thus one can still take the waters as one would take a bath at home. At least that's my train of thought. However I suspect that groups rent these facilities not to enjoy a fun time letting their hair down, but to avoid having to enjoy the public facilities and thus guaranteed of more sanitary conditions ...

From Kats' Window (on Burma and Thailand) a posting entitled Mind your Manners

'Thankfully, Thai people are the most non-aggressive, friendly, and accepting bunch I have ever come across and are experts at acceptance. When half-naked sunburned backpackers roll into town, it looks extremely bizarre. When visitors have a day of fun sunbathing naked in Muslim areas of Thailand, Thais are not so rude as to point and laugh. But they are disturbed. They view these visitors to their country as being rude. The other side of the coin is that the visitors have money, and money is really important. Millions of tourists bring millions of dollars and are tolerated all the more because of this'.

Though I might have had a private naked dip in one of the aforementioned cubicles, rest assured never in a public hot spring. Then again I have often made use of solitary waterholes (rivers, waterfalls) to enjoy Thailand's natural surroundings as natural as possible. Unseen!

From Tropical Rambles.

A final thought:

'Can skinny dipping save the planet?
The Bite:
Believe it or not, it helps. Swimsuits require energy and transport to produce, while birthday suits require none. But if swimming in the buff just isn't your style, try on some eco-swimwear for size...

The Benefits:

• Sexy style. Give Sports Illustrated's swimsuit models a run for their money in eco-bikinis. Planet-friendly.
• Eco-suits are made from organic and recycled materials, and 1 lb of organic cotton averts 1/3 lb of pesticides and fertilizers.
• Eco-suits offer an eco-friendly, non-nudist way to keep sand from getting into uncomfortable places'.

Btw: Did anyone notice that the to be broadcasted Canadian travel programme , Skinny Dip, has nothing on Thailand nor on Southeast Asia ...

Dr. Fish?

Jaws VI?

Kanchanaburi

Out west from Thailand's capital city, Kanachanaburi province is famous for it's waterfalls and it's history, though it's role in the Second World War is one of notoriety as indentured labour by locals and foreign captives were used to construct a railroad to Burma under 'hellish' circumstances.

Less well-known is that Kanachananburi hosts 5 hot springs. There's Hindad, the most famous and another 4 of which I failed to gather much information, despite them being listed. Not on the list is Rock Valley, it's yet to have a Thai name. I'm unsure whether 'Rock Valley' hot springs counts as a hot spring though (see below).

But seeing it prominently sign-posted, the car swerved off the road and uopthe valley in search of this not so Thai-named hot springs.

Rocky Valley
It quickly became apparent that the owners had gone out of their way to attract customers. Despite it being about 10 km off the main highway, at every twist and turn, small signs, some more clearer marked than others, showed the way. In the end it was a well-travelled 1 km dirt road, which to lead to the site.

Perched on the Kwai Noi River, most visitors come from upstream resorts by boat. As the day was drawing to a near, the reception provided an ad-hoc service, explaining that it would be 1 hour before the site would close and it would cost 500 Bt (~$US 15). That sounded steep, but a quick tour showed prime pools simply waiting for a late customer.

There were a number of pools laid out along each other, using local rocks with some cement walls and floors. Here was defintly an enhanced resort! Plants had been added, a high screen to protect the bathers from the sun and all with a view of the river.

The soak
So 500 Bt poorer, I was proivided with a towel and a locker key and a pair of local style bathing pants. The changing facilities were extensive and certainly encouraged a cleansing shower before the soak. After hitching the pants up and making sure that they stayed there, it was time to test the waters. I had been forewarned not to try the hottest option, but a more cooler variant. This was a 36-38C pool which was large with a number of coves. These could be used if you might have problems with the throngs of fellow soakers, but there were none. In two corners of these coves, showers and waterfalls had been created.

Dr Fish pool, for real.

The hotter pool was 40-42C and was hot without being too hot. Again the pool was very tastefully landscaped. Next up was the 'Dr Fish' pool: a foot deep pool packed with small tilapia. These fish went into a feeding frenzy once my feet stood still long enough. But the ensuing laughs didn't help to keep my feet still; eventually my feet must have become less tatstier or I got immune to the feeling of hundreds of nibling fish jaws.

After this hilarious soak, a hottish herbal bath followed, not-so natural any more. Herbs enhacing the qualitiy of the water are tumeric, kaffir lime, casumunar, lemon grass, tamarind, Acacia, pandusus, rose and ilang-ilang. And then a final dip in the cool pool with view of the river. That was about all avaialable in the alloted one hour.

Background
Officially called Rock Valley Hot Spring and Fish Spa, it's part of the River Kwai Village Hotel, located on the other side but still a few km's up stream. The hotel boasts being the first up-river jungle style resort in Kanchanaburi province but by now there are many more, both shores dotted with various types of resorts.

The hot spring has it's own web-site, which gives a good introduction, but fails to give correct indications of location, while also the price is not mentioned. Another hotel web site already mentioned that the price was 450 Bt, which seems a bit unfair then to charge the independent tourist a surcharge just for the sake of it.

However the web-site (and other information made available) does prominently promote itself; mention is even made of the spa in a Bangkok Post article ( March 1, 2009) Info obtained also indicates what standards the waters adhere to, independently verifierd by the Thai Department of ScienceService, IQA Laboratory company which states

that the waters are safe and can be used for soaking.

What's more, the need to used sanctioned soakwear means that efforts are in place to at least keep the water from being contaminated, no fully dressed nor are swimmers allowed, only what they provide, a unicum in Thailand I believe.

It is unclear though, whether these are waters obtained are from natural springs. There are no sulphorous smells and the spa itself mentions that the waters are obtained from 20-30m down, where it has a temperature of 58-60 degrees.

The info obtained reveals that the scaly nibblers are "Tilapia gangsters', which

nibble deteriorating skin cells or exfoliate skin, thus stimulating better blood circulation.

Oddly though there is little to none other info outside of Thai websites and You Tube vid's.


Getting There: Rock Valley is located up the main 323 highway from Kanchanaburi town to the Burmese border. Just beyond the turn-off for Sai-Yok district a clear sign will tell you when to turn left. It takes a right and a left turn before crossing the Kwai Noi river. On the other side, you turn right and follow the river upstream for 9 km's when you cross a small stream and make a sharp turn to your left. The entrance road is 500m up from here on your right. The spa is a km down this good track.

Soaking Experience: It's a great soak, well adapted to regular users, though supposedly the well-heeled ones. Pity is that there is no big bassin, nor more private facilities; however the different bassins provide for a good and varied experience. There's also a drinking and eating facility. And it's also possible to take a massage. Friendly and helpful staff.

Overall Impression: Best soaking spa in Thailand? Could be: the pools are in nice settings, have been naturally enhanced. There is variation in the number of pools and what they are intended for. Beautiful setting.

One of the coves of the not-so-hot pool, with a 'shower'.

Visited August 2009.