Soaking in the Shade

On the edge
Chumphon is a touristically underrated province in Thailand. Too far away from Bangkok to warrant a weekend trip, too close to make flying there practical. Back (and flash) packers are all on their way to Ko Tao, a veritable divers paradise slowly edging to high end boutique-ness.

However Chumphon sits on a deserted and sometimes exposed coast line. Far from the crowds, the beaches and islands are still mostly silent, falling victim to shrimp farms. But still there are enough places to get away from it all. The beaches of Thung Wualaen, Sairi, Tawan Chai, Thung Makham, Arounothai to name a few.

The hinterland is covered in lushly forested mountains with probably many great waterfalls but as of yet Chumphon's main accessible natural attractions are it's beaches and caves.

Tham Khao

Line up
And here we come to the hot springs. The hot springs of Tham Khao Plu are located at the foot of a limestone outcrop just short / past of the Chumphon's southern most district town of Lamae.

Most web sites dedicate their entries of this hot spring as follows:

'There are 3 hot spas here at the foot of the mountain slope. In the vicinity, there are also 4 caves with beautiful stalactites and stalagmites. Wildlife such as squirrels, pig-tailed monkeys and birds of different species are scattered around the area'.

Others add:

'Available of the private cabin to relaxing in the hot spring bathtub and pool area in the shade of trees'.

Though only a couple of hundred meters from the audible southern highway (no. 41), the double billing of caves and hot springs fails to draw in any crowds of substance (despite it's popularity) as the well-signposted attraction fails to even have a car park.

Raining, pouring, soaking?
Instead there's a rough terrain next to the entrance which functions as a sort of a place to leave behind your vehicle. It's raining. Pouring. No sign of letting up, nor whether or not a soak exists. Someone has to scout the area as we have only one umbrella. The umbrella is falling apart. Seeing that I'm the expert and the only willing volunteer, it's quickly determined that I will have to leave the dry car and trudge through puddles and seek a soaking place.

The spring in the forest. One of the three.

Past the empty entrance building, past a number of shop fronts, one comes to the foot of the karst. To the left is an enclosure which is a hot water source. Following the path one passes a toilet building next to a smaller bathing pool for which entrance may well cost 10 THB (US$ 0,30).

Hot pool

Beyond the pool is another hot spring well. The path continues and one can go up and into the mountain where a small shrine is in the cave mouth.
Further along the lower path is another pool, abandoned and another source. The path continues most probably to more caves but the rain remains relentless, so I choose to return.

Private
There is mention made of a private pools but I didn't see any. Probably one of the best web references is a Japanese language website (soma-samui) which has an entry on Tha Satorn hot spring in Surat Thani, Porn Rang in Ranong and Tham Khao Plu. It also has a reference to a flickr site. Which includes a photo of a private bath, not at all bad ...

The source

Getting there: Just 7 km south of Lamae trown, Tham Khao Plu is a not to be missed turnoff eastwards from the southern highway 41. From the turnoff it's about 500m followed by another north turn. Well signposted (for Thailand).

Soaking experience: Overall there's quite some effort has been put into the soaking facilities, let's make it a passable.

Overall impression: A nice break on a long journey, but the experience isn't special enough to warrant special attention, other than another opportunity to take a break rather than lounging at a petrol station.

p.s. the lead photo is of an abandoned pool ...

Wellcome

Wow
In all honesty there's not much to distinguish visit's to some of Thailand's hot springs from each other. Sometimes well signposted, sometimes not at all. They are all are designated to 'wow' the visitors, attract more tourists and line the pockets of local entrepreneurs and governments. That's the theory. In reality very low costing improvements have been put through, often resulting in nothing really enhancing. Or money has been thrown into sterilizing the surroundings resulting in high maintenance costs with no corresponding budgets.

Arguably it are those that develop organically that contain the most charm.

Election day
Nong Ya Plong is the name of a district in Phetchaburi province, southwest of Bangkok. Fifteen kms away from the sleepy district town, up towards the mountains along a winding and twisting road one arrives at a graveled car park flanked by a number of food stalls who on this July election sunday are looking forward to the visitors despite not being able serve alcohol. There is a sign saying

"wellcome to hotspring",

so this is it.

As the road was also heading to a waterfall, (7 km yonder), I inquire what happened to the road, believing a visit to a waterfall followed by a soak is an even better prospect, better than a soak alone. The road has a barrier gate over it and the answer given is that this is to avoid allowing cars like mine, non-four-wheel drive, entrance to the waterfall as the road is apparently too steep.

Star
Well, part of the plan shelved, let's look at the soak. A track leading down passes the amenities building and leads to a large star-like formed bassin which looks aesthetically nice if not for the large blue pipe hovering above the pool. The tap to this pipe is closed and as could be expected the water in the bassin is not warm.


Returning we quickly have a look at the bathing house, which in fact is a couple of tubs.

Bath building

Tag
Heading upwards from the car park is another cement path. We have hardly made it a couple of meters on this path after we are attached on by half a dozen small kids who, by the looks of it, are interested in selling us flower garlands. With no communication possible we continue with our taggers running around and between us.

The path goes up and over a hillock, then drops to a streamlet. Two large pipes are to be seen and both fell very hot.

We continue onwards and arrive at the actual springs. A wooden fence around a meter high wall with a tree in one point of the triangular shape fencing. Beyond are two small temples covered in flowers while down stream of the pond, underneath a tree, a small section of the stream has been cemented, cement stools added and thus one can soak one's feet in the very hot water.

The small temples add an unknown quantity / quality to these springs, as well as the fact that with the exception of some washing on the wooden fence, the area around the springs are immaculately clean.

The hot pond with temples beyond.

On a picnic table there's even an honesty box which the caretaker takes considerable effort to communicate this to us.

Captain says
On internet, the Phetechaburi travelguide mentions this as Punmaron hot spring:

'People have used the hot spring water in therapeutic baths to treat rheumatism and other ailments. The reservation eventually developed into a well-known resort because it attracted many health seekers all year round. Also, the hot spring area and surrounding mountains give a spectacular example of the forest ecosystem.Today there are two bathhouses and a service center to provide visitors with hot spring baths ...'.

Then there is Panoramio. A photo road trip by Captain Slash.

And? Your votes?

Getting there: From the main highway south take the 3340 towards Nong Ya Plong but just before town head west again. From here there are only about 100 signboards!

Soaking experience: No big tubs, sort of distracts from the soaking experience. Still are not fond of prisoner situations, 4 large walls, not even someone to talk to!

Overall impression: The place is very relaxed and down to earth. A soak is to be had as well as some insight in local life. A worthy stopover.

Thai's Top Ten

Having published a Top 10 list 18 months ago, I thought looking into whether or not much change has occurred might be worthwhile. With the usual nonobjective measurements (correct spelling / choice of web sites used / relative count) the following came out of the hat:

1 Fang (2)
2 Sankampaeng (3)
3 Betong (4)
4 Chiang Dao (-)
5 Tha Pae (1)
6 Hin Dat (5)
7 Klong Thom (10)
8 Chaiya (-) and Pong Duet (8)
10 Kapong (-) and Pha Bong (8)

Gone are Phra Ruang and Rock Valley; Phra Ruang is just outside the top 10, whereas I choose not to include Rock Valley as it has a very western name as opposed to all others having Thai names; it might just give it an unfair advantage.

Newcomers are the hot springs of Chiang Dao, Chaiya and Kapong, the latter two are certain surprises. The Chiang Dao area is getting more publicity lately and is near an unnamed hot spring.

Tha Pae drops considerably, while Klong Thom climbs a little.

Independently, Thai language magazine Places & Prices includes as it's best the hot springs of Fang, Sankampaeng, Tha Pae, Pong Duet, Jaeson and Raksawarin (Ranong), though they fail to share why they are the best.

My own top 5 visited would include Bor Klueng and Hin Dat, others I am not so sure of. To be honest, Thai hot springs are not really well tuned to either being natural/undisturbed or accustomed to soakers who might just want a hint of hygiene.

Certainly in my most desired would be Klong Thom, Jaeson, Sai Khao, Namki and Phu Klon. Let's see what the future will bring ...

Where else?

The baths of Nam Rong, Phetchabun

Phetchabun
Phetchabun province is not really well-known by foreign tourists, for instance the Lonely Planet has failed to include it at all!
That seems to be not so fair, in general it's a quiet, laid-back part of the country, fringed with some seriously beautiful mountains. Take an example of Tat Mok / Song Nang waterfalls. Elsewhere there is the historic park of Si Thep.
And of course some hot springs.

Besides Phu Toei 'hot' spring, Thailand Energy and Environment Network (TEEN) list a number of other hot springs in Phetchabun province, totallying 5, whereas Ramingwong et al. (1990) mention 4:

'The surface temperatures range from 35 to 47 C. and the discharges are generally small'.

Phu Kham hot spring
Despite traveling through the town of Phu Kham (or Pukham) there was not much evidence of a hot spring despite the TEEN listing. However this Thai language website begs to differ and translated it reports:

'This hot spring. Temperatures around 45-50 degrees Celsius does not smell of sulfur. Now being updated to a water supply system. In winter the village is taking a hot shower. Loosen the winter very well. Villagers believed that This is a hot spring wells from the holy fire.
...
Travelling by car
Si Thep from the Highway 21 straight through the intersection District Wichienburee Ban Phu Kham. Turn left and go 50 meters to the small junction. Turn right to the Thong Chai Wat Si. Will see a fountain'.

Wangkhasm hot spring
Despite TEEN listing no less than 2 hot springs (well, temperatures above 30C) in this village, they are the only reference. Could also be Wang K(h)am, though this also has no leads.

Nam Ron (Phetchabun) hot spring
Nam Ron translates as hot water and is an often used name in Thailand for a village with a hot spring. To distinguish itself Phetchabun is added, this village falling administratively under the provincial capital district.

TEEN notes it having waters with 50C, which would make it a hot spring.

The village is located on the crossroads of road 2385 and 2275, blink and you will miss it. There's a very small market and a bridge. On the west crossroads side of the bridge, there are two houses directly next to the stream. The back one has a large Welcome sign and is the hot spring.

However when I visited the facilities they were open despite there not being a soul around. Directly behind the entrance were about 7-8 bathrooms each with it's own tub.
A certificate was displayed concerning the presumed mineral quality of the waters (see photo below). Presumed, as the list contains no reference other than pH and chloride.

I nosed around but couldn't find anything that would help ascertain where or how there is a hot spring here, though locals distinctly pointed to this as being the place for a soak.

Additional info from Ellis (2011):

'In 1999 Dean Smart found several small hot springs in the river bank around the bridge in Ban Nam Ron. The water is very hot, but no holes were visible due to the muddy river water'.

Btw, not so far away (national park entrance @ 10 km) are the delicious waterfalls of Song Nang and Tat Mok in the Tat Mok National Park. Oh, I see I have already mentioned them ...


Nam Ron (Wichian Buri) hot spring?
Not on the TEEN list is another Nam Ron village.

Independently I went all the way to this Nam Ron village, 18 km of potholes east of Wichian Buri only to discover that the name had nothing to do with there actually being a spring despite Nam Ron translating as hot water. Huh?

Notes
Ellis, M. (2011) The Caves of Phetchabun. Takobi, Lom Sak, Phetchabun, Thailand.
Ramingwong, T., F. Suvagondha, W. Uttamo, S. Lerdthusnee, K. Wattananikorn, L. Jurasai, & C. Singhasenee (1990) Geothermal pre-feasibility study in the Phetchabun area of northern Thailand. Nippon Chinetsu Gakkaishi (Japan); 12: No. 3, 229-237 (25 Jul 1990).

Cool

Is it a spring?

ABC
Spelling Thai hot springs gives it's own problems. Phu Toei is just one of the many problems encountered with finding a hot spring. Alternatively I've seen this as Puteuay, Pu Toei, Puteu and Phu Thoei. Luckily it's a larger village and as such not so difficult to find (I wish).

Having had the opportunity to visit Phetchabun (or Phetchaboon or either without the h) over the past week, I decided to visit this hot spring, if only because it's along the main highway to the provincial capital. I actually was expecting some directions on how to find this place, but instead drove straight through the village and when asking around was eventually lead to a different village altogether (see upcoming blog entry). So I stopped on my way back to Bangkok.

Spa
The springs are apparently smack bang in the center of the large village, just behind a Chinese temple.

About half a hectare in size, a public park has been created and only recently renovated as it included many new-looking play and fitness apparatus. Well-maintained, there are a couple of ponds, none of which looked very hot.

At the back of the park is a modern looking spa and early morning I inquired if it was possible to bath. It was, but only if I would like to wait for 20 minutes. Probably so they could fill the tub? Flow must be a trickle. Anyway, no worries and 20 minutes later the tub was ready.
I was taken inside, received towels and disposable underwear (?) was directed to changing cubicle. Before changing though, showers were pointed out as well as a big modern jacuzzi, all inside and very clean and modern.

Well after donning the disposable underwear I had the jacuzzi for myself. Low and behold, it was cool water! Weird, maybe should have waited longer? Anyway nothing to be done about it, but to enjoy the bath.

Behind the veil

Cold?
Phu Toei certainly is noted for it's hot spring. That said, the Thailand Energy and Environment Network mention that the temperature of this spring as 32 C, which it wasn't. Elsewhere on their site they also imply the temperature as being 30 C, who knows maybe after more research they would have found out it was closer to 20 C which was what it felt like.

According to Erfurt-Cooper & Cooper (2009) this would mean it to be a cold spring, at best tepid (25-34 C).

Spring with pipes

There is not much real info on internet most seem to use the following text:

'It is a natural hot spring, emerging to the surface. The area has been developed into a health tourism attraction and a relaxing venue. There are daily services of mineral water bathing, spa, body massage, and foot massage provided from 9.00 a.m. – 8.00 p.m'.

This site includes at least a picture of the baths.

Getting there: From Bangkok take highway 21 towards Phetchabun from Saraburi. Phu Toei is located 44 km from the Chai Badan turnoff. The hot springs park is in the middle of town on the eastern side of the highway, partly hidden by a Chinese temple.

Soaking experience: This is the first place in Thailand where I have seen that facilities have been created expressly for bathing (and wellness) and run by a private company. The facilities were excellent as was the surrounding park. Pity that the water was not warmer ....

Overall impression: Excellent, if only the water had been hotter ...

Notes:
Erfurt-Cooper, P. & M. Cooper (2009) Health and Wellness Tourism. Spa and Hot Springs. Aspects of Tourism: 40. Channel View Publications, Bristol, United Kingdom.